My thoughts and experiences on food and wine and other things

Allons “les” Enfants….

In Cutting Edge, Food on December 4, 2010 at 12:20

It has been almost two week now since I last reported any culinary temptations or adventure …. and since I last put my thoughts into words about my fantasm and pleasures found into my food and the very and various other bits around it, water has indeed run under the bridges as one might say . Nevertheless, my mind has indeed never been so focused and as to how things may be implemented, for education for example ,in passing on knowledge and sharing experiences to the following pair of hands and legs that will run in the kitchens, sometimes without knowing where to start, but with perseverance and tennacity will end up cooking meals for your delights and who knows, hopefully “emoustille” you papilles and take you away for a little while, sometimes for longer , with the pleasure of a warm chocolate fondant for example with its unctuous Rose petal Ice cream melting over might get you to see places normally reserved for children’s only. I love going there, don’t you?!

So …. we have got to try this!

The teaching of certain skills and traditions nowadays touches us all, as we all have or had a grand-mother or parent in our life that has been preparing for us what is now the biggest part of our childhood memories , I name for a few examples ……. Grossmutty’s grated apple pie topped with caramelised meringue and the  “Breddele” (Schwo, Gschpritz,Nuss…depending or your county of origin…..for me it has been Alsace, and always will….) or the special flavour coming out of the kitchen when during the traditional Sunday roast , the potatoes were found “rissolling” on the wooden fire cast iron stove ,with  them , bubbling away, a few cloves of fresh garlic in their husk and herbs found here and there  at the bottom of each row of the vegetables  garden at the back of the house. All would be put into good use, in their own time, according to season and making sure a rather clever turn and rotation of the soil  was taken into consideration before every ‘Ensemencement” (seeding) …..potatoes one year, spinach rows the next, haricots and courgettes , endives and lettuces such as escaroles or batavia, with of course, once prepared and seen at the table, it would be deliciously dressed with the regional (Alsace) vinegar, le Vinaigre de Melfor.

A spirit vinegar made with honey and infused plants that is smooth and mellow, not sharp but round , all this made from a secret recipe since 1922  .

A diner for the 4th chapter of the Disciples d’Escoffier took place at the world-renowned club of Anton Mosiman’s and we have seen the intronisation of some great chefs and people that wake and keep the industry in such a way that tradition and “coutumes” are represented by the ceremony that took place for the occasion. Amongst them Brian Turner, Bruno Loubet and Pascal Aussignac. Not only the venue was subliminal but all attending guests were here to see, witness and participate to such a historical moment as indeed and again the respect of tradition was felt  , shaking you like an eruption of mix and match feelings and emotions all stronger than any busy kitchen service. For me it is simply the long line of hard-working individuals that reunite from time to time, around the table of course, without any prejudice, all equals , just like the great slogan that comes with our national flag “Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite”. The support that impregnate you and buzz around like a discontinue courant is of such intensity that you feel amongst your beloved one within the very first step into the evening. It is not a world apart, soft light,  bubbles exploding around and making your ears crack with pleasure, it is exactly on the same level, as I said, continue , refreshing as it is comforting, that somewhere, out there, a light is shinning over it all ,over us all, just as to remind all that our purpose is not being unrecognised ….keeping an eye and focus on with the hard work is the key.

Last week, French food or its gastronomic habits to make a right fuss around its meals was “Rewarded or rather Honoured” by being declared world heritage by Unesco (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization). We may thanks gracefully our President for his campaigning into the recognition of the “Art de la Table” that has been with us , in our moeurs and daily living habits, for centuries,  and wish that perhaps more and more may from now be done and helped with so this will not have been proved in vain, but will rather help the present and future generations in the industry and amongst the families keeping up with recipes, local products and any other means anyhow related to our “Bonne Table”.

Le plaisir de la table est de tout les ages, de toutes les conditions, de tous les pays, et de tout les jours: il peut s’associer a tous les plaisirs et reste le dernier pour nous consoler de leur perte . Brillat-Savarin “Aphorisme”


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